SCIENCES

Coquilles, Calva & Crème

Exploring France's Culinary Heritage; A Love Affair with French Food
by G.Y. Dryansky
with Joanne Dryansky. Coquilles, Calva & Crème: Exploring France's Culinary Heritage; A Love Affair with French Food. Pegasus. Jun. 2012. c.360p. illus. ISBN 9781605983295. $28.95. COOKING
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G.Y. Dryansky (former contributing editor, Condé Nast Traveler) and his wife, Joanne, who live in Paris, have clearly left no stone unturned in tracking down historical bits about the culinary heritage of France, including stories of chefs both famous and notorious, restaurants frequented by kings, and those where whores congregated; however, the authors rarely stop long enough to truly satisfy readers' curiosity after piquing it with such wild tales. This book is part history of France, part travelog, and part description of culinary practices and ingredients, interlaced with recipes and tidbits about the people and places that have contributed to France's rich culinary heritage.
VERDICT With so much information squeezed into this book, it is a fairly thorough history, but it deprives readers of the pleasure of savoring a well-described meal or a richly told tale. Still, avid followers of food writing or those with a strong interest in culinary heritage will find value.
Reviewed by Ann Wilberton, Pace Univ. Lib., Brooklyn , Apr 01, 2012
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