By Her Own Design

Huguley’s (“Home to Migration” historical romance series) dazzling, meticulously detailed historical fiction debut spotlights Black designer Ann Lowe, “society’s best kept secret” in pre–Civil Rights America, who received little recognition for her stunning creations, including Olivia de Havilland’s 1947 Academy Award gown and Jacqueline Kennedy’s 1953 wedding dress. Born in Jim Crow Alabama, Lowe was raised by her grandmother and mother, whose resourcefulness and dressmaking skills allowed them to earn a living in the face of rampant racism, though the family often struggled financially. Lowe’s undeniable talent inspired white patrons to send her to a New York fashion school, where she listened to lectures alone in the coat closet, segregated from white students. Narrator Tracey Conyer Lee perfectly portrays Lowe’s emotions as she grows from child bride to haute couture designer, expertly showing her frustration at segregation’s constraints, heartbreak over family tragedies, and single-minded determination to work as a couturier. Lee’s distinctive tones, pacing, and energy also bring Huguley’s other compelling characters to life.