COOKING & FOOD

Eleven Madison Park: The Plant-Based Chapter

Voracious. 3. Nov. 2024. 400p. ISBN 9780316539784. $275. COOKING
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In 2021, James Beard Award–winning chef, restaurateur, and cookbook author Humm reopened the legendary New York City restaurant Eleven Madison Park with a plant-based menu. It subsequently became the first plant-based restaurant in history to receive and retain three Michelin stars. This collectible, signed, limited-edition (and yes, pricey) cookbook chronicles that transformation and is divided into three volumes: “Backstage” (a collection of behind-the-scenes photographs by Ye Fan), “Drawings” (illustrations from Humm’s workbooks with an essay on creativity), and “Recipes.” Arranged seasonally and inspired by the culinary philosophy of “shojin ryori,” the recipes—which often show their restaurant roots when they call for lengthy prep work or specialized equipment like a cryovac machine—range from asparagus fried with seaweed and shiso to cucumber with melon and smoked daikon to passion fruit with mochi and vanilla. Recipes are presented in a sleek, minimalist style, accompanied by gorgeous photographs of the dishes themselves.
VERDICT The cost as well as the level of culinary expertise required to execute these dishes will put this cookbook out of reach for many home cooks, but those interested in the inner workings of a legendary restaurant, or culinary professionals hoping for some inspiration, will find this remarkable cookbook to be the culinary equivalent of “haute couture.”
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