COOKING & FOOD

Gateaux: Sweets (Modern French Pastry)

Tra Publishing. Feb. 2025. 192p. ISBN 9781962098120. $40. COOKING
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Award-winning chef Yoshida, who owns celebrated boutique bakeries in Japan and in Paris, does not sugarcoat what cooks can expect with his debut cookbook. These works of pastry are demanding and are for skilled and experienced bakers. Recipes in the book are arranged in chapters by time of day (morning, 4 PM, evening) and cover the patisserie gamut, from croissants and madeleines to a Saint-Tropez tart and hazelnut financiers. The influence of Yoshida’s own culinary heritage shines through in recipes such as Japanese strawberry cream cake and black sesame Paris-Brest. Home bakers may gravitate towards some of the slightly less intimidating bakes, including Breteuil sables and classic brownies. But Yoshida’s attention to detail extends even to the most basic treats, as exemplified by his recipe for lemon cake, which instructs bakers to pipe the finished batter into pans instead of simply spooning it in. Museum-worthy photographs of some of the finished creations enhance this magnificently packaged celebration of the sweet culinary artwork of Yoshida, who brings Japanese finesse and flavors to the marvelous world of French pastry.
VERDICT A master class in patisserie for fledgling pastry chefs, as well as an aspirational guide to the subject for ambitious home bakers.
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