SCIENCES

Mamushka: Recipes from Ukraine & Eastern Europe

by Olia Hercules
Weldon Owen International. 2015. 240p. photos. index. ISBN 9781616289614. $35. COOKING
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Ukraine-born food writer Hercules captures treasured family recipes in this richly detailed collection of underappreciated eastern European foods. Moving far beyond familiar dishes such as cold beet soup (kholodnyk) and stuffed cabbage leaves (holubtsi), she includes colorful and herbaceous salads, spicy pickles and conserves, and a wide assortment of baked, boiled, and fried breads, pastries, dumplings, noodles, and desserts. Hercules takes a relaxed tone when delivering directions, occasionally urging readers to skip steps when they "can't be bothered." Overall, her debut lends itself to leisurely, restorative home cooking.
VERDICT Hercules's unexpected Ukranian, Azerbaijani, Russian, and Armenian comfort foods can help home cooks transition to colder months.
Reviewed by Lisa Campbell , Dec 01, 2015
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