COOKING & FOOD

Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown: Recipes and Stories from the Birthplace of Chinese American Food

Ten Speed: Crown. Mar. 2021. 304p. ISBN 9781984856500. $40. COOKING
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Mister Jiu’s, the Michelin-starred restaurant in San Francisco’s Chinatown, celebrates chef Jew’s vision of cuisine rooted in Chinese culinary tradition, shaped by classic Chinese American banquet fare, and driven by using local ingredients at their peak. This stylish cookbook, cowritten by food writer Ho, shares 90 of the restaurant’s recipes, ranging from fundamental building blocks such as stocks and spice blends to what are accurately called “master class” recipes. Chapters follow the typical order of courses in a traditional Chinatown banquet, from bites and soups to vegetables, seafood, meats, and dessert. Alongside the recipes, Jew shares snippets of San Francisco Chinatown’s vibrant history and pays homage to some of the most iconic dishes, restaurants, and chefs. Although most recipes rely on accessible ingredients, many of the advanced dishes feature multiple sub-recipes and require several days’ worth of time in the kitchen.
VERDICT Rewarding for home cooks seeking a unique technical challenge and readers looking for a deeper understanding and appreciation of Chinese American cuisine. The dessert chapter, with recipes and narrative by Mister Jiu’s pastry chef Melissa Chou, is a particular highlight.
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