The title of this catalogue, accompanying an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, refers to articles of clothing in the collection that must be exhibited laid flat. To display them otherwise would harm the stability of the garments, whose fibers have become fragile and damaged over time. These objects in turn relate to the exhibition’s overarching theme of nature, which, like fashion, is fleeting and ever-changing. Drawing upon examples of clothing from the Met’s collection, sections are divided into subjects such as “Earth” (clothing inspired by different types of flowers), “Air” (birds and insects in fashion), and “Water” (garments inspired by sea-related themes such as marine life, seashells, and mermaids). The close-up images focus on the tactile qualities of clothing details such as colors, patterns, embroidery, and beading. Costume Institute Curator in Charge Bolton and other curators, conservators, and scholars provide context for how the garments were worn and examine the sensory aspects of the objects through scientific analysis of features like the garments’ scents or the sound of their fabric when in motion.
VERDICT Beautifully designed and clearly written, this book is for readers who want to gain new insights into the language of clothing.
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