Sando, the founder of the highly regarded heirloom bean company Rancho Gordo, offers a guide to cooking with beans. The collection, written with Julia Newberry, general manager of Rancho Gordo and coauthor of
The Rancho Gordo Vegetarian Kitchen, begins with a lengthy introduction that includes a history of beans in the Americas, Sando’s bean cooking method (plus how to do it in a pressure cooker, slow cooker, or clay pot), and pantry suggestions for those focused on the culinary possibilities of beans. Then there’s a highlight chapter: almost 20 pages devoted to 50 heirloom varieties of beans, each with a photo, tasting notes, and a recipe index. Then come the recipes, divided into dips and appetizers, salads, soups, stovetop dishes such as braises, beans and grains, baked beans, patties, and a roundup of sweets, stocks, and salsas. Choices range from Greek slow-baked garbanzos with tomatoes and peppers to moros y cristianos to pizza beans to baked beans. Many of the recipes are either vegetarian or can be adapted to be so. Striking photos round out the work.
VERDICT Authoritative, welcoming, and wide-ranging, this is a key title for all collections.
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