In her first cookbook, Borlongan, cofounder of Los Angeles–based Wanderlust Creamery, has written a beautiful homage to ice cream, with particular attention to her mission of integrating her family’s Filipino culinary traditions into the world of American ice cream so that she can disrupt how traditional ice cream shops normalize flavors such as mint chip while “everything else is deemed weird or odd.” At once a how-to of ice cream and a why-is-it approach that questions the cultural construction of recipes (e.g., “butterfat is cultural”), this book challenges readers to think about what comfort means to them. The recipes for bases make it possible for cooks to tailor ice cream flavors to their cultural and personal dietary preferences or needs. She includes, unexpectedly, an entire chapter on corn and as offers recipes such as caramelized milk chocolate and plantain brittle, Creole coffee and donuts, and Kinako and Kyoho grape jelly that will likely convince readers that there’s a world of flavors to explore.
VERDICT Whether she’s recreating her family memories, exploring complex flavors, or adding her own twist to American classics, Borlongan knows how to sweeten the familiar while decolonizing the ice cream machine, one cone at a time.
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