NONFICTION

Three Squares: The Invention of the American Meal

Basic: Perseus. Sept. 2013. 304p. illus. notes. bibliog. ISBN 9780465025527. $27.99; ebk. ISBN 9780465040964. COOKING
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Food historian Carroll's first book is a comprehensive look at the formation of the American meal. Though the author was initially motivated by her interest in the concept of snacking, she soon realized that there are reasons for the way Americans eat that are continually evolving, where meals are defined by their relationship to one another. After laying the groundwork for eating habits in colonial America, she takes the reader, from dinner to breakfast, on a tour of mealtime history, finishing off with a discussion on snacks and a meditation on the future of the American meal. Readers will find a number of interesting facts here, such as a reference to an early 1900s attempt to centralize cooking through cooperative housekeeping clubs. The work is extensively referenced: nearly 60 pages are given to chapter notes and the select bibliography, while almost two dozen illustrations provide a visual interlude.
VERDICT This absorbing, well-researched account of the development of American eating habits will appeal to readers seeking to satiate an appetite for culinary history. Recent and relevant titles include William Sitwell's A History of Food in 100 Recipes and Bee Wilson's Consider the Fork: A History of How We Cook and Eat, while Laura Shapiro's Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century and Margaret Visser's Much Depends on Dinner: The Extraordinary History and Mythology, Allure and Obsessions, Perils and Taboos of an Ordinary Meal are noted by the author and worth seeking out.
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