There’s much to appreciate in the latest from Van Olphen (
The Tinned Fish Cookbook) for readers seeking a score of ideas for fish-forward and vegetable-forward meals or practical advice on adopting a pescatarian diet. Van Olphen notably advocates for easy meals and preparation. First, he gives background on different fish (haddock, pollock, hake) and vegetables and fruits (avocado, beet), then shares what herbs and seasonings to have in the pantry to make his soups, salads, curries, and stews (most recipes are in the realm of Northeastern American cuisine). Van Olphen also offers advice on preparing and sourcing fish (primarily considering the kinds of fish readily available in North America); notably, he recommends buying frozen and canned fish, which he says is often more sustainable than fresh. Among the highlights of this cookbook are recipes for stuffed zucchini blossoms with saffron dressing and lentil salad with smoked wild salmon and arugula pesto. The beautiful photographs accompanying the recipes will whet the palate.
VERDICT A master course for combining fish and vegetables, which makes it a great addition to many collections, especially given the increasing media attention on pescatarian and flexitarian diets.
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