Chicago, ALA 2005: Tasting Chicago

Good food is easy to find in the Windy City

Foodie Alert

In addition to the several thousand people here for the ALA annual conference, many more will be visiting for the annual Taste of Chicago, June 24 through July 4. Some 3.5 million people will sample food from about 100 restaurant tents in Grant Park (300 S. Columbus Dr.). It's an amazing opportunity to try pizza, ribs, "cheeseborgers," and lots of ethnic foods. There is also plenty of music on several stages.

At the Hotel

Although some people are turned off by hotel food, Chicago is a city where that view will be challenged. Some notable restaurants are in the "official" ALA hotels: 312 Chicago (Allegro), Aria (Fairmont), Weber Grill (Hilton Garden Inn), Zest (Inter-Continental), South Water Kitchen (Monaco), Caliterra (Wyndham), and my favorite in this group, Bin 36 (House of Blues Hotel). There are some outstanding restaurants in other Chicago hotels worth visiting: Ambria (Belden-Stratford), Osteria Via Stato (Embassy Suites Chicago-Downtown), Seasons and Seasons Café (Four Seasons), the Ritz-Carlton's dining room and café, Atwood Café (Burnham), NoMI (Park Hyatt), Avenues, the Lobby, and Shanghai Terrace (Peninsula), and Kamehachi (Westin River North).
S Up to $15
$$ $15–$30
$$$ $30–$45
$$$$ $45–$60
$$$$$ $60+ (and men usually wear jackets and ties)
Dining in Chicago is always a treat—or, rather, many treats. There are so many excellent restaurants from which to choose that the hardest part is narrowing the choices. Advance planning, now easier than ever, enhances that experience. A few places do not reserve tables, but where they do, reservations are strongly advised. Even with reservations, there can be a wait at very popular restaurants. Friday and Saturday nights are always busy, especially during the summertime. Many restaurants are closed on Sundays, and a few are closed on Mondays. Restaurants often have their own web sites, which include menus, wine lists, prices, reviews, interior photos, tours, and maps and directions. The sites can frequently be used to make reservations. Some even have printable "coupons" that allow discounts on meals. If you don't already have specific restaurants in mind, there are web sites that will help you make informed selections. Use and combine such search parameters as type of cuisine (Afghan to Vietnamese), type of meal (breakfast, lunch, brunch, tea, dinner, pretheater, late-night), average entrée prices, outdoor seating options, and various neighborhoods (Downtown, Near North, North, Northwest, South, Southwest, and West, or a suburb). You'll also find reviews and recommendations in the dining sections of the local papers and their web sites and in the monthly Chicago Magazine. Most of the restaurants listed here are easily accessible by foot, by taxi, or by public transportation. The CTA has a very helpful trip planner (tripsweb.rtachicago.com) where you can select a starting point and destination, date, starting or anticipated arrival time, and quickest or easiest routes. It's remarkably effective. Visitor passes can be purchased for one ($5), two ($9), three ($12), or five days ($18) through the CTA web site (yourcta.com), at the CTA stations at O'Hare and Midway airports, and at various other locations in Chicago. The price guide here is based on an appetizer and entrée. Lunches and buffets are usually less expensive, as are bar menus. Even if a menu shows no special vegetarian choices, most restaurants are able to prepare something to meet your needs, tastes, or interests. It always helps to telephone ahead to make sure. The area code is 312, unless otherwise noted.  

Chinatown

Close to the Convention Center is Chicago's Chinatown, easily accessible via the CTA Red Line, the major North-South line. Emperor's Choice 2238 S. Wentworth, near Cermak, between 22nd & 23rd Streets, 225-8800; Mon.–Sat. 11:45 a.m.–1 a.m.; Sun. 11:45 a.m.–midnight. $$ This restaurant has an extensive and interesting variety of seafood prepared in Mandarin and Cantonese styles. It's a bit smaller than some of its neighbors, but the fresh fish dishes make the place well worth a visit. Penang 2201 S. Wentworth at Cermak, 326-6888. Daily 11 a.m.–1 a.m. $–$$ Choose from among Malaysian, Japanese, Indian, and Southeast Asian cuisines. The lamb or beef cooked in spicy coconut milk is highly recommended. You won't be disappointed. Phoenix 2131 S. Archer Ave., between S. Wentworth & W. Cermak, 328-0848. Mon.–Fri. 9 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5–10 p.m.; Sat. & Sun. 8 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5–11 p.m.; Dim sum: Mon.–Fri. 9 a.m.–3 p.m., Sat. & Sun. 8 a.m.–3 p.m. $–$$ The dim sum here is highly rated. The informal Dumpling House on the first floor does not close between lunch and dinner. If you're bold, order the chicken feet, but also select from among other delicious beef, pork, chicken, and seafood options.

The South Loop

North of McCormick Place, some good restaurants have developed in the South Loop. Gioco 1312 S. Wabash at 13th St., 939-3870; www.gioco-chicago.com. Sun.–Wed. 5:30–10 p.m.; Thu. until 11 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. until midnight. $$$ Dine here on Northern Italian pasta dishes, thin-crust pizzas, roast chicken, veal scaloppini, and more in an old Chicago speakeasy. Don't overlook the octopus carpaccio, grilled calamari, or some of the excellent vegetarian choices. Opera 1301 S. Wabash at 13th St., 461-0161; www.opera-chicago.com. Sun.–Wed. 5–10 p.m.; Thu. until 11 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. until midnight. $$$ Have classic Chinese dishes with contemporary twists in an exotic room. The Szechuan green beans with pork and the dumplings of ginger and pork are particularly good. Oysy 888 S. Michigan at 9th St., 922-1127; www.oysyshushi.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5–10 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. until 11 p.m.; Sun. 4:30–9 p.m. $$–$$$ Oysy means "delicious," and it lives up to its name. You can choose from a great variety of sushi, sashimi, maki, tempura, larger dishes (hot and cold), salads, and sakés, as well as Japanese beers and cocktails. Recommended are the toro sushi, spicy tuna maki, and the stir-fried octopus with house-made hot sauce. The other location, at 50 East Grand (670-6750), is equally "oysy."

Greektown

Nearby Greektown has plenty of popular choices for traditional dishes of lamb, chicken, seafood, and a variety of vegetarian entrées. Here are some of the best. Costa's 340 S. Halsted at Van Buren, 263-9700; www.costasdining.com/chicago.htm. Sun.–Thu. 11 a.m.–midnight; Fri. & Sat. until 1 a.m. $$ The pianist playing on the web site, which has online coupons, is Yanni; the pianist onsite is not but adds to the restaurant's ambiance. Parthenon 314 S. Halsted, between Jackson & Van Buren, 726-2407; www.theparthenon.com. Daily 11 a.m.–1 a.m. $$ This is one of the largest and perhaps best known of the Greektown favorites for locals and visitors alike. Santorini Greek Taverna 800 W. Adams at Halsted, 829-8820; www.santorini.com. Sun.– Thu. 11 a.m.–midnight; Fri. & Sat. until 1 a.m. $$ This is my favorite for seafood, particularly the octopus and squid.

Downtown

Downtown is the site of most of the conference hotels. The downtown area can be described in more or less distinct sections. The Loop is the popular name for the central, downtown business district, just south of the Chicago River. All the CTA subway or El lines pass through here as do many of the major bus routes. For a good, quick, cafeteria-style meal, consider the Corner Bakery, with many locations in the area. Berghoff 17 W. Adams, between State & Dearborn, 427-3170; www.berghoff.com. Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Fri. until 9:30 p.m.; Sat. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. $$ Probably the oldest restaurants in the city (over 100 years old) and certainly one of the most historic, this is often described as a "landmark" or an "institution." There is often a line, but the wait to get in is short. In addition to the many German dishes, there is also Berghoff beer, root beer, and bourbon. Catch35 35 W. Wacker Drive, between Dearborn & State, 346-3500; www.catch35.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon–Thu. 5–9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. until 10 p.m.; Sun. until 9 p.m. $$$ In this intimate dining room you'll find fresh seafood and many dishes with Asian preparations tailored to your request. Everest 440 S. LaSalle at Congress Pkwy., One Financial Plaza, 663-8920; www.leye.com/restaurants/rest_home.jsp?id=9. Tue.–Thu. 5:30–9:30 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. until 10 p.m. $$$$$ Jean Joho's New French cuisine has a hearty, Alsatian pedigree. It's not just the location of the restaurant on the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange that makes this haute cuisine. Even the great view will not distract from the amazing food. A three-course tasting menu is available at opening time for $49 (except Fri. & Sat.). Rhapsody 65 E. Adams, between Michigan & Wabash, 786-9911; www.rhapsodychicago.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Sun.–Wed. 5–9 p.m.; Thu.–Sat. until 10:30 p.m. $$$$ Located in Symphony Center, Rhapsody also serves its contemporary American cuisine outdoors in a very pleasant garden (though the sounds of the El nearby can be intermittently annoying). The crab cake appetizer is particularly good, as are the salads, and the desserts are beautifully presented. Trattoria No. 10 10 N. Dearborn, between Madison & Washington, 984-1718; www.trattoriaten.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5:30–9 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. until 10 p.m. $$–$$$ You'll discover excellent contemporary Italian fare hidden one floor below street level. I'm partial to the grilled calamari, but there is a great variety of other seafood and meat dishes, as well as pastas. The "happy hour" buffet, 5–8 p.m., is a bargain at $12 and a $6 drink minimum—it's all-you-can-eat antipasti, pastas, and salads. As we circulation librarians say, "Check it out!"

West

West of the Loop, the Market District, and West Town have some of the most exciting and popular restaurants. Here is a good sampling. Blackbird 619 W. Randolph, between Desplaines & Jefferson, 715-0708; www.blackbirdrestaurant.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5:30–10:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30–11:30 p.m. $$$$ Paul Kahan's contemporary American food never ceases to amaze. Frequent menu changes ensure that new delights always await. The sleek space feels a bit cramped, but the food is worth squeezing into a table. La Sardine 111 N. Carpenter, between Randolph & Washington, 421-2800; www.lasardine.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m. $$$ Jean-Claude Poilevey's reliable French bistro fare is always a treat. It is not unusual to see some of Oprah's guests visiting from nearby Harpo Studio. Red Light 820 W. Randolph at Green St., 733-8880; www.redlight-chicago.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Sun.–Wed. 5:30–10 p.m.; Thu. 5:30–11 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30–midnight. $$$ This Pan-Asian spot delights diners. Fortunately, Jackie Shen still carries the chocolate bag that her followers have admired for many years. It's always stylish! Wishbone 1001 W. Washington at Morgan, 850-2663; www.wishbonechicago.com. Mon.–Fri. 7 a.m.–3 p.m.; Sat.–Sun. 8 a.m.–3 p.m.; Tue.–Sat. 5–10 p.m. $$ The Southern food here is sometimes (and accurately) referred to as "comfort food." You may be tempted to kiss their grits. Blackened catfish or chicken, barbecued pork, hoppin' John, and crawdad cakes are among the items not often found this far north. Strawberry shortcake? You bet!

Gold Coast & Streeterville

Near North Michigan Avenue, these are also close to many ALA hotels. Emilio's Tapas Sol y Nieve 215 E. Ohio at St. Clair, 467-7177; www.emiliostapas.com. Mon.–Thu. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–midnight. $$ The Streeterville version of Emilio's features the same delicious hot and cold tapas, sangrías, and Spanish wines and sherries as its Lincoln Park sibling further north at Clark & Fullerton (773-327-5100). The food is moderately priced, and the ambiance is always agreeable. Heaven on Seven on Rush 600 N. Michigan Ave. (enter at Rush & Ohio), 280-7774; www.heavenonseven.com. Sun.–Thu. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. $$ On the second floor, this larger version of the original Heaven on Seven (111 N. Wabash at Washington, 263-6443) offers the same tasty Creole-Cajun food and then some. There is a bar here, so you can sample the Sazerac cocktail, a New Orleans invention that's rare in Chicago. Joe's Seafood, Prime Steak, & Stone Crab 60 E. Grand at Rush, 379-5637; www.icon.com/joes/Chicago_home.html. Mon.–Thu. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sun. 4–9 p.m. $$$$ The Chicago version expands on the Miami original by opening beyond the months of stone crab season and adding some traditional Midwestern choices to the menu. The stone crab claws draw most customers, though the other options are also good. I like to order a gimlet cocktail (half vodka, half rum) made with their own fresh key lime juice. Les Nomades 222 E. Ontario, between Fairbanks & St. Clair, 649-9010; www.lesnomades.net. Tue.–Thu. 5–9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–10:30 p.m. $$$$$ Jackets and ties are requested for men dining at this small townhouse restaurant noted for its classic French cuisine. The upstairs dining room is more intimate and interesting, but the food is the same—elegant and delicious. Sayat Nova 157 E. Ohio, between Michigan and St. Clair, 644-9159. Mon.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m.; Sun. 3–10 p.m. $–$$ Armenian and other Middle Eastern delights, including plenty of vegetarian choices, are to be found here. The décor is a bit like what you'd imagine inside a genie's magic bottle, and the food is magical but not at all mysterious. Spiaggia One Magnificent Mile Bldg., 980 N. Michigan Ave. at Oak, 280-2750; www.levyrestaurants.com. Mon.–Thu. 6–9:30 p.m.; Sun. 6–9 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30–10:30 p.m. $$$$$ Spiaggia means "beach," and from the second floor you'll enjoy the views of Oak Street Beach: authentic Italian cusine for fine dining, with unusual ice creams for a great finish. For a more casual meal, go next door to Café Spiaggia. Tru 676 N. Saint Clair, between Erie & Huron, 202-0001; www.trurestaurant.com. Mon.–Thu. 5:30–9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30–11 p.m. $$$$$ This is one of Chicago's places to splurge. Rick Tramanto's food (and Gale Gand's desserts!), the splendid service, and elegant ambiance combine to provide an experience to remember. Several seasonal, prix fixe tasting menus feature fine contemporary American food. The courses are augmented with delightful little treats from the kitchen.

River North

Much good food awaits just west of the North Michigan Avenue area. Allen's–New American Café 217 W. Huron, between Franklin & Wells, 587-9600; www.allenscafe.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Mon. 5:30–9:30 p.m.; Tue.–Thu. 5:30–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30–11p.m. $$$ Venison is almost always available on the menu at Allen's. The New American cuisine includes other game such as rabbit, frog legs, and seafood. Ben Pao 52 W. Illinois at Dearborn, 222-1888; www.benpao.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 4–9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 4–11 p.m.; Sun. 5–9 p.m. $$ At Ben Pao you will find contemporary Chinese in a pleasant setting. Occasionally, fire trucks from Chicago Engine Co. 42 across the street lend additional excitement. Big Bowl 60 E. Ohio at Rush, 951-1888; www.leye.com/restaurants/big_bowl.htm. Sun.–Thu. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. $$ Asian fusion, steamed or fried dumplings, noodles, or select your own ingredients for a stir-fry meal. You might want to try the Indofusion martini, with its slice of fresh ginger. The web site offers a discount coupon for this and the second location at 65 E. Cedar at State (640-8888). Bistro 110 110 E. Pearson, between Michigan & Rush, 266-3110; www.levyrestaurants.com. Mon.–Wed. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Thu.–Sat. 11 p.m.; Sun. 10:30 a.m.–10 p.m. $$–$$$ The restaurant is much larger than expected, and you can expect ample portions of French bistro food at reasonable prices. The Ghirardelli Chocolate Shop & Soda Fountain, practically next door, may lure you for dessert. Bistro Zinc 1131 N. State, between Cedar & Elm, 337-1131. Mon.–Thu. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri. 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sat. 10 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sun. 10 a.m.–9 p.m. $$$ Enjoy standard, reliable bistro fare at reasonable prices in the busy Rush Street part of the Gold Coast. Brasserie Jo 59 W. Hubbard, between Clark & Dearborn, 595-0800; www.brasseriejo.com. Mon.–Thu. 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m.; Sun. 5–9 p.m. $$$ According to Chef Jean Joho, a brasserie is more cosmopolitan than a bistro. So, in addition to bistro fare, expect to find regional French and Alsatian dishes: steak frites, mussels, oysters, pâtés, onion tart, and more. For dessert, get profiteroles or the chocolate mousse—or both! Café Iberico 739 N. LaSalle, between Chicago & Superior, 573-1510; www.cafe-iberico.com. Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m.–11:30 p.m.; Fri. 11 a.m.–1:30 a.m.; Sat. noon– 1:30 a.m.; Sun. noon–11 p.m. $$ This popular place for hot and cold tapas, Spanish wines, and sangría provides a chance to sample a wide variety of small plates of delectable treats. Charlie Trotter's 816 W. Armitage, between Dayton & Halsted, 773-248-6228; www.charlietrotters.com. Tue.–Thu. First seating: 6–6:30 p.m.; second seating: 9–9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. First seating: 5:30–6:30 p.m.; second seating 8:30–9:30 p.m. $$$$$ Considered by many to be the best restaurant in the country for American cuisine, Trotter's features food that is always inventive and a memorable dining experience. Located in a townhouse in the Lincoln Park area, this is another of Chicago's great splurge restaurants. Chilpancingo 358 W. Ontario at Orleans, 266-9525; www.chilpancingorestaurant.com. Mon.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Sun. 10:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. & Sun. 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m. $$$ Geno Bahena and his team have created another excellent Chicago restaurant featuring authentic Mexican dishes, especially those featuring Oaxacan moles. Among the main courses, the chiles en nogada is delightful. Crofton on Wells 535 N. Wells, between Grand & Ohio, 755-1790; www.croftononwells.com. Mon.–Thu. 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m. $$$$ Suzy Crofton creates some of the best regional cuisine around. Try the sautéed seasonal mushrooms and the barbecued pork loin. A reasonably priced four-course tasting menu is available. Cyrano's Bistrot 546 N. Wells, between Grand & Ohio, 467-0546; www.cyranosbistrot.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Mon.–Sat. 5:30–10:30 p.m. $$–$$$ The bistro fare here is enriched with some unusual choices like frog legs, roast rabbit, veal kidneys, and sweetbreads. The recently opened Café Simone Parisian Cabaret on the lower level features smaller plates and music during the latter half of the week. Fogo de Chao 661 N. LaSalle at Erie, 932-9330; www.fogodechao.com. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 4–10:30 p.m.; Sun. 4–9:30 p.m. $$–$$$$ A Brazilian churrascaria featuring more than a dozen fire-roasted meats, carved table-side by gauchos in this all-you-can-eat extravaganza. Traditional Brazilian side dishes and a salad bar are included for a fixed price of about $30 at lunch or $49 for dinner. Or you can select just the salad bar, with a great variety of foods, for about $21. Frontera Grill 445 N. Clark, between Hubbard & Illinois, 661-1434; www.fronterakitchens.com. Tue.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Sat. 10:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Tue. 5:20–10 p.m.; Wed.–Thu. 5–10 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. 5–11 p.m. $$$ Topolobampo Tue.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Tue.–Thu. 5:30–9:30 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. until 10:30 p m. $$$$ Rick Bayless, a renowned proponent of authentic Mexican cooking, is one of ALA's poster celebrities. Frontera is casual, with grilled specialties for building your own tacos al carbon and more. The more upscale Topolobampo will dramatically expand your idea of Mexican cuisine. In addition to selecting from the menu, you can opt for the chef's five-course tasting menu. Gaylord India Restaurant 678 N. Clark at Huron, 664-1700. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Sat.–Sun. noon–3 p.m.; Daily 5:30–10 p.m. $–$$ Here you'll find an enormous number of tandoori choices, vegetarian dishes, and curries. The luncheon buffet is a great option. For dessert, try some kulfi-Indian ice cream. Gibson's Steakhouse 1028 N. Rush at Bellevue, 266-8999; www.gibsonssteakhouse.com. Daily 11:30 a.m.–midnight. $$$$ Very popular with Rush Street fans of red meat. If you feel more like fish, head next door to Gibson's sister, Hugo's Frog Bar & Fish House, for frog legs, crab cakes, and other fish. Green Zebra 1460 W. Chicago at Greenview, between Armour & Bishop, 243-7100; www.greenzebrachicago.com. Tue.–Thu. 5:30–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30–11 p.m.; Sun. 5:30–9 p.m. $$$ Fans of heirloom tomatoes will recognize the name as one of the best and most popular. Although the menu includes a fish dish and a poultry selection, it's the great veggie choices that bring in the diners. Green Zebra has recently been named one of Chicago's Best New Restaurants by Chicago Magazine. India House 59 W. Grand, between Clark & Dearborn, 645-9500; Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–3 p.m.; Sun.–Thu. 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m. $–$$ Another good Indian restaurant in the River North area, this offers a wide variety of curries and tandoori dishes, many vegetarian, and a bargain buffet lunch. Kevin 9 West Hubbard, between Dearborn & State, 595-0055; www.kevinrestaurant.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5:30–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30–10:30 p.m. $$$$ Kevin Shikami's French/Asian-fusion intriguing menu changes daily—often with ostrich and usually crab cakes that you will want to try. There is a small outdoor seating area. Kiki's Bistro 900 N. Franklin at Locust, 335-5454; www.kikisbistro.com. Mon.–Thu. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. & 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. & 5–11 p.m. $$$ For many years, I preferred to keep this French bistro a secret, but so many people knew about it that I finally gave up. Kiki is usually there, welcoming longtime fans. I usually order the rabbit sausage appetizer and the duck breast. Le Colonial 937 N. Rush, between Oak & Walton, 255-0088; www.lecolonialchicago.com. Daily noon–2:30 p.m.; sidewalk café: noon–4 p.m.; Mon.–Fri. 5–11 p.m.; Sat. 5–midnight; Sun. 5–10 p.m. $$$ French-Vietnamese food is served amidst French Colonial décor. In the afternoon, between 2:30 and 4 p.m., you can enjoy a lighter, limited menu at one of the sidewalk tables. Le Lan 749 N. Clark, between Chicago & Superior, 280-9100; www.lelanrestaurant.com. Mon.–Wed. 5:30–10 p.m.; Thu.–Sat. 5:30–11 p.m. $$$–$$$$ Nearly concealed between the Irish pub Celtic Crossings and G's Dawg'n' Burger is a very small but elegant French-Vietnamese restaurant. Le Lan was established by Chicago luminary chefs Roland Liccioni (now back at Le Francais in Wheeling) and Arun Sampanthavivat (of Arun's), and it has recently been named Best New Restaurant by Chicago Magazine. Maggiano's Little Italy 516 N. Clark at Grand, 644-7700; www.maggianos.com. Mon.–Thu. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sun. noon–10 p.m. $$ Good, standard Southern Italian food in large quantities is the norm here, so plan to share or try half-orders where they are available. It's connected to a Corner Bakery, through which you enter. Naha 500 N. Clark at Illinois, 321-6242; www.naha-chicago.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5:30–9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5:30–10 p.m. $$$$ Carrie Nahabedian's restaurant specializes in American/Armenian cuisine. If you're not sure what that is, you're in for some pleasant surprises. The gourmet American dishes are prepared with Mediterranean enhancements. North Pond 2610 N. Cannon Dr., between Diversey & Fullerton, 773-477-5845; www.northpondrestaurant.com. Tue.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Sat.–Sun. 11 a.m.–2 p.m.; Tue.–Sun. 5:30–10 p.m. $$$ With its Prairie School or Arts & Crafts décor, this restaurant is located right in Lincoln Park overlooking North Pond. Contemporary American cooking with regional ingredients pleases patrons at lunch as well as at dinner. Reza's 432 W. Ontario at Orleans, 664-4500; www.rezasrestaurants.com. Daily 11 a.m.–midnight. $$ One of Chicago's favorite restaurants for Middle Eastern and Persian food, this Reza's is as alluring as the original up in Andersonville. The special marinated chicken and the stuffed grape leaves are always popular, and there are plenty of vegetarian choices, too. Portions are large. Sal & Carvao 739 N. Clark at Superior, 932-1100; www.salecarvao.com. Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5–10 p.m.; Fri. 5–10:30 p.m.; Sat. 4–10:30 p.m.; Sun. 4–9:30 p.m. $$$ Build a churrascaria and they will come—and go away replete! There is a salad bar option for the faint of appetite or light of pocketbook. Otherwise, go for the red meat, roasted on a spit, carved at your table, all you can eat. Shaw's Crab House 21 E. Hubbard, between Wabash & State, 527-2722; www.shawscrabhouse.com/chicago.html. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5:30–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m.; Sun. 5–10 p.m. $$$ Loads of fresh fish daily both in the main dining room and the more casual Oyster Bar, which is less expensive, open between lunch and dinner, offers live music three nights a week. Simple preparation, including some Asian choices, keeps customers coming back. Star of Siam 11 E. Illinois, just east of State, 670-0100; www.starofsiamchicago.com. Mon.–Thu. 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 10 a.m.–10:30 p.m.; Sun. 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m. $ All the Thai standards are available. It's good and affordable. A fun and satisfying place to dine. Tizi Melloul 531 N. Wells at Grand, 670-4338; www.tizimelloul.com. Mon.–Wed 5:30–10 p.m.; Thu. & Sun. 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–11 p.m. $$$ At this Mediterranean restaurant, diners have the option of eating in the Crescent Room, seated on cushions on low banquettes. There is belly dancing on Sunday nights at 7 and 8 p.m., but I don't think patrons join in. Definitely order the fire-roasted mussels served with warm harissa butter. Vong's Thai Kitchen 6 W. Hubbard at State, 644-8664; www.vongsthaikitchen.com. Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Sat. noon–5 p.m.; Mon.–Thu. 5:30–9:30 p.m.; Fri. 5:30–11 p.m.; Sat. 5–11 p.m.; Sun. 5–9 p.m. $$$ Thai cuisine, artfully prepared and presented in an attractive space, makes this a popular destination.
Robert Allen Daugherty is Circulation Librarian, University of Illinois at Chicago
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