The trend in celebrating American products continues in this documentary devoted to the history and craft of bourbon. Neat provides an overview of the spirit from its colonial origins through its modern-day resurgence without following a strict chronology. There are highs and lows, from the law establishing that bourbon must be American made to the 1980s when consumers preferred clear spirits. The audience encounters bourbon makers and bartenders, but there are unexpected voices, such as the archaeologist leading teams to discover long-abandoned distilling operations. The film has a young, hipster vibe, but aside from Freddie Johnson, a third-generation worker at Buffalo Trace, and a Japanese mixologist, persons of color receive almost no other noteworthy screen time. That feels curious given the origin of bourbon in the South, leaving viewers something to ponder. Overall, though, this is easy viewing, especially since it looks as though it were shot with some Instagram filters to handsome effect.
VERDICT A solid, even sumptuous tribute to an American whiskey.
—Peter Hepburn, Coll. of the Canyons Lib., Santa Clarita, CA