Banks, Jeffrey & Doria de la Chapelle. Norell: Master of American Fashion. Rizzoli. Feb. 2018. 224p. illus. notes. ISBN 9780847861248. $65. DEC ARTS

Designer Banks and fashion writer de la Chapelle coauthor this first book dedicated to ­Norman Norell, born Norman David Levinson (1900–72). Often called the “dean of American fashion,” Norell began his career designing for theater and film; in 1928, he went to work for fashion entrepreneur ­Hattie Carnegie, which enabled him to examine haute couture in Paris. In 1940, he partnered with Anthony Traina and eventually took over their business in 1954. Known for meticulous construction and the use of luxurious fabrics, Norell produced clothes on par with that of Paris designers. Among his most enduring styles are beautifully crafted jersey chemise dresses, menswear-inspired jackets and coats, mermaid dresses sewn with sequins, and dirndl skirts and dolman sleeves used on evening gowns. Norell was the first American designer to have his name on a dress and a fragrance, the first to win a Coty Award, and the first president of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. VERDICT Highly recommended for anyone curious about this pioneering designer and the history of American fashion.—Sandra Rothenberg, Framingham State Univ. Lib., MA

Benaïm, Laurence. Fashion and Versailles. Flammarion. Feb. 2018. 240p. illus. notes. index. ISBN 9782080203359. $65. DEC ARTS

From Louis XVI to ­Marie Antoinette, the Chateau of Versailles has been a showcase for French fashion, its influence continuing from the 19th century through today. Fashion journalist and expert Benaïm (Women in Dior) demonstrates how artists, writers, film directors, and couturiers have viewed Versailles as a place of beauty, dreams, and fleeting pleasures, which is reflected in their work. Christian Dior incorporated intricate 18th-century embroideries woven on pastel colors and luxurious fabrics such as tulle and brocade into his creations. But rebel designers such as Vivienne ­Westwood and John Galliano also found ways to work the elaborate styles of Versailles into their designs. The exquisite setting also serves designers who frequently have their collections photographed there. Benaïm further touches on films featuring Versailles, including Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette. ­VERDICT With beautiful color photographs and a chronology, this volume will enthrall Francophiles, especially those fascinated by French fashion and design.—SR

Burton, Roger K. Rebel Threads: Clothing of the Bad, Beautiful & Misunderstood. Laurence King. 2017. 328p. illus. index. ISBN 9781786270948. $50. DEC ARTS

Featuring the vintage clothing of stylist and collector Burton and coinciding with an exhibition of his collection in London, this title looks at the fashions of youth movements and subcultures. Covering the 1930s to the punk movement of the 1970s, the book has an English slant while also featuring some U.S. examples. In 1940s Britain, a group called Spivs, who modeled themselves on Hollywood movie gangsters, donned double-breasted suits and were known for selling items on the black market. Another British group, the Teddy Boys, were working-class youths from London in the 1950s who loved rock music and appropriated the ­Edwardian look of long frock coats, drainpipe trousers, and Maverick ties. Both the mod and dandy looks originated in England, with the Rolling Stones sporting the latter in the mid-1960s. VERDICT Striking color images of clothing as well as vintage film stills and street photography complement this intriguing read, perfect for those interested in alternative fashion and sub­cultures.—SR

Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams. Thames & Hudson. 2017. 368p. ed. by Florence Müller & Fabien Baron. illus. notes. ISBN 9780500021545. $65. DEC ARTS

Published to coincide with the exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris marking 70 years of the House of Dior, this lavish, oversized volume, coedited by fashion historian Müller and art director Baron, begins with an overview of the fashion house, from its founding by Dior in 1947 and the success of his “New Look” collection, through the subsequent designers at the helm, including Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John ­Galliano, Raf ­Simons, and most recently, Maria ­Grazia Chiuri. Gorgeous chronological images focus on details of the clothing included in the exhibition, such as the rich embroidery and beading on the 1952 “Palmyre” and “Trianon” gowns and the ornate 1949 tulle and sequined “Junon” gown. Also included are photographs of notable clients such as Princess Margaret, Princess Grace, and ­Elizabeth Taylor wearing Dior. Smaller reproductions of fashion sketches on a thin tracing-type paper and a time line are nice additions. The only drawback is the small font used for the essays. VERDICT Visually stunning and beautiful, this is ­recommended for French fashion and ­history buffs.—SR

Day, Carolyn. Consumptive Chic: A History of Beauty, Fashion, and Disease. Bloomsbury Academic. 2017. 208p. illus. notes. bibliog. index. ISBN 9781350009370. pap. $31.95; ebk. ISBN 9781350009400. DEC ARTS

Historian Day (Furman State Univ., SC) examines how late 18th- and early 19th-century England’s cultural ideas of beauty and fashion were reflected in the disease of consumption, or tuberculosis. Idealized and feminized in the discourse of the period, consumption was linked with a creative and sensitive intellect among the middle and upper classes. The symptoms, especially in women—white translucent pallor, a red flush on the cheeks, extreme slenderness, white teeth, large pupils—were held up as models of aesthetic beauty. In neoclassical dress, thin fabrics and styles that exposed women’s limbs, backs, and décolletages to England’s damp climate were thought to cause consumption. Later, in the 1830s–40s, tight corsets created the desired slender torso reflected in the physique of the consumptive, while at the same time, by putting pressure on the lungs, contributed to the disease. ­VERDICT Drawing on medical treatises, beauty manuals, fashion periodicals, and other literature of the period, this thoroughly researched and erudite work will satisfy those interested in social and ­cultural ­history.—SR

Fairer, Robert & Claire Wilcox. John Galliano: Unseen. Yale Univ. 2017. 362p. photos by Robert Fairer. ISBN 9780300228953. $60. DEC ARTS

Covering John Galliano’s fashion label from autumn/winter 1996–7 to spring/summer 2011, this book compiles images by Vogue photographer Fairer featuring runway and backstage views of the shows. Beginning with a preface by former American Vogue editor at large André Leon Talley and introductory essays by Fairer and fashion historian ­Wilcox, the majority of this book is photographs of the collections, with introductions and descriptions preceding each group of images. Formal shots of models on the runway join photos of goings-on backstage: models waiting, socializing, or having their clothing adjusted by individuals such as hat designer Stephen Jones, a frequent Galliano collaborator. The variety of photographs convey the energy and spectacle of Galliano’s many shows. VERDICT As this book is not a general introduction of the designer’s career, it is only recommended for ­Galliano aficionados or lovers of striking fashion photography.—SR

Hardy, Joanna. Ruby: The King of Gems. Thames & Hudson. 2017. 268p. illus. bibliog. ISBN 9780500519417. $125. DEC ARTS

Gemologist Hardy (Emerald) provides a cultural history of the ruby, a rarer gemstone than the white diamond. Using the hidden archives from Hennell, one of London’s oldest silversmiths and jewelers, among other sources, Hardy investigates a comprehensive range of ruby jewels, from the medieval period to the present. Starting with the ancient ruby mines in Burma, the author first distinguishes the ruby from the spinel jewel, explaining that each gemstone splits light in a different way, thus clarifying that rubies are found only in shades of red, while spinels can also look pink or orange. Famous jewels and collectors are highlighted, including Queen Victoria’s Indian tiara, the Duchess of Roxburghe’s rubies by ­Boucheron, Marjorie ­Merriweather Post’s jewels by Van Cleef and Arpels, and ­Elizabeth Taylor’s perfect ruby ring (a gift from Richard Burton). VERDICT With an elegant silky red fabric cover, gorgeous photographs, and archival drawings of precious jewels, this is recommended for jewelry enthusiasts and collectors.—SR

The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-Century Women Designers. Bloomsbury USA. Feb. 2018. 272p. ed. by Nancy Deihl. photos. notes. bibliog. index. ISBN 9781350000469. pap. $26.95; ebk. ISBN 9781350000483. DEC ARTS

This scholarly collection goes beyond the Claire McCardells and Bonnie ­Cashins of midcentury fashion history to spotlight some underappreciated and all-but-forgotten women designers of the period. “Design Innovators” includes Virginia Woods Bellamy, who dabbled in poetry and invented number knitting, as well as Sandra ­Garratt, whose modular clothing line turned heads in the 1970s and 1980s. “Developing an Industry” showcases the many women who labored behind the scenes on Seventh Avenue and regionally, such as Chicago-based Nicki “Catherine Scott” Ladany. In “Hollywood, Broadway, and Seventh Avenue,” editor Deihl profiles African American designer Zelda Wynn Valdes and Lourdes Font looks at American-born designer Vicky Tiel, a Paris couturière for more than 50 years. Some chapters are tough going; others are fascinating, showing how clever women succeeded in a male-dominated field. VERDICT With copious notes, a few photos, and lengthy bibliographies following every chapter, this volume is especially useful for fashion historians and others who want to know more about the industry in the 20th century—and the women who helped it grow.—Liz French, ­Library Journal

Petkanas, Christopher. Loulou & Yves: The Untold Story of Loulou de La Falaise and the House of Saint Laurent. St. Martin’s. Apr. 2018. 512p. illus. notes. bibliog. index. ISBN 9781250051691. $45; ebk. ISBN 9781250161420. BIOG

Starting in 1972, the ­elegant and chic ­Loulou de La Falaise worked for many years as the assistant to Yves Saint Laurent at his design house in Paris. This book follows not only aspects of their working and social relationship but also covers Loulou’s history (an extensive family tree is included) as well as her personal and professional relationships. Interviews with people who knew her, and with Loulou herself, are interspersed with commentary from writer and journalist Petkanas, who covered the house from 1982 to 1988. The narrative is most interesting in its discussion of Loulou’s working methods when coordinating accessories for Saint Laurent and as a bohemian influence on the designer. She later created most of the costume jewelry for the fashion house. Much of the volume is insightful and relevant to Loulou’s life, but there are also gossipy tales. The multiple engaging and entertaining narrators reflect the heady 1970s–80s fashion world as well as the history of the house. VERDICT This handsome book will appeal to ­readers ­interested in Loulou de La Falaise and Yves Saint Laurent and their professional and ­social milieu.—SR

Vreeland, Lisa Immordino. Love, Cecil: A Journey with Cecil Beaton. Abrams. 2017. 256p. illus. notes. index. ISBN 9781419726606. $50. DEC ARTS

Filmmaker (Peggy Guggenheim) and writer (Diana Vreeland) Vreeland has compiled a book on the multifaceted creative Cecil Beaton (1904–80); she has also made a film version. The prolific Beaton wrote 38 books, was a talented photographer who worked for Vogue and Vanity Fair, and designed costumes for the films My Fair Lady (1964) and Gigi (1958). While many books have been written about Beaton, Vreeland’s aim is to shed new light on his motivations and desires through highlighting work from his archives (such as the Cecil Beaton Studio Archive, Sotheby’s London) that has not been covered before, such as his scrapbooks, sketches, and letters. Many of his photographs are also reproduced, often with commentary, sometimes not complimentary, by Beaton that further exposes his relationships with the sitters. Sections include “Scrapbooks,” “Ballet,” “Hollywood,” “Fashion,” and “Artists and Writers,” among others. VERDICT More of a supplement to other works on Beaton, this is primarily for readers already  ­familiar with him.—SR

Short Takes

Battaglia, Giovanna. Gio_Graphy: Fun in the Wild World of Fashion. Rizzoli. 2017. 224p. photos. ISBN 9780847858392. $39.95. DEC ARTS

Stylist and editor Battaglia presents her vision of personal style and advice in this book filled with colorful and sometimes whimsical images of the author dressed in different looks. She suggests not taking fashion too seriously but having a good time with it and expressing yourself. ­VERDICT Lighthearted and upbeat. For fashionistas everywhere.—SR

Know-It-All Fashion: The 50 Key Modes, Garments, and Designers, Each Explained in Under a Minute. Wellfleet. Apr. 2018. 160p. ed. by Rebecca Arnold. illus. bibliog. index. ISBN 9781577151746. pap. $14.95. DEC ARTS

In this quick study of key fashion moments, designers, and modes, seven sections cover “Designers,” “Themes & Inspirations,” “The Media,” and more. Chapters are preceded by a glossary, with snappy graphics and succinct write-ups on subjects such as Anna Wintour, China’s impact on the market, the power of fragrance, and designer profiles. VERDICT Sort of a Cliff’s Notes for fashion fans, this is great fun for younger readers all the way up to grandparents needing a refresher course.—LF

Lynn, Eleri. Tudor Fashion: Dress at Court. Yale Univ. 2017. 208p. illus. notes. bibliog. index. ISBN 9780300228274. $45. DEC ARTS

The fashion historian and curator at Historic Royal Palaces and specifically at Hampton Court Palace looks at the way fashion was integral to Tudor rulers such as Queen Elizabeth I to project power and reflect status. Lynn also examines the dress of the lower ranks. As not many examples from this period have survived, the author draws from portraits and paintings of genre scenes of the period as well as modern reconstructions. ­VERDICT Well researched with exquisite images, this is a solid choice for people interested in the dress and cultural ­history of this ­period.—SR

Meylan, Vincent. Bulgari: Treasures of Rome. ACC. Feb. 2018. 296p. illus. index. ISBN 9781851498796. $95. DEC ARTS

Fine jewelry expert Meylan (Van Cleef & Arpels) tells the stories of the famous clients of the Roman jewelry house ­Bulgari, and their jewels, including the Countess di Frasso; actor Tyrone Power and his wife, Linda Christian, who were married in Rome; socialite Brooke ­Astor; and actress and jewelry collector ­Elizabeth ­Taylor, among others. ­VERDICT Not a general history or overview of the house of Bulgari, but for those who already know about the jeweler and want to learn more about specific clients and their ­collections, this is a keeper.—SR

North, Susan. 18th-Century Fashion in Detail. Thames & Hudson. Jun. 2018. 224p. illus. notes. bibliog. ISBN 9780500292631. $40. DEC ARTS

First published in 1998, this revised and expanded volume, part of the “Fashion in Detail” series by North (­Victoria & Albert Museum curator of fashion, 1500–1800), features items from the V&A collection. Close-up and detailed photographs highlight exquisite embroidery, lace, pleats, stitching, and hand-painted fabrics alongside line drawings of the complete garment. ­VERDICT Recommended for clothing designers and anyone interested in 18th-century attire.—SR

Vogue Look Books

Asome, Carolyn. Vogue Essentials: Handbags. illus. index. ISBN 9781840917666. Fox, Chloe. Vogue Essentials: Little Black Dress. ISBN 9781840917659. ea. vol: Octopus. (Vogue Essentials). Apr. 2018. 160p. photos. $20. DEC ARTS The first two “Vogue Essentials” titles featuring photos from British Vogue’s vast archives are smaller than previous big-box Vogue books, but they still deliver. Spreads mix decades, designers, and photographers to present old and new together, with facts about the trends and looks and designers. Fashion journalist Asome wittily whisks readers into the world of designer bags and other “arm candy,” while British Vogue contributing editor Fox smoothly slips them into the little black dress. VERDICT Thoughtfully juxtaposed layouts, brief, pithy descriptions, and a reasonable price make these little black books essential for those who desire a quick but quality look at fashion history.—LF Asome, Carolyn. Vogue on Jean Paul Gaultier. ISBN 9781849499699. Cosgrave, Bronwyn. Vogue on Chanel. ISBN 9781849491112. Fraser-Cavassoni, Natasha. Vogue on Calvin Klein. ISBN 9781849499705. Sinclair, Charlotte. Vogue on Gianni Versace. ISBN 9781849495530. ea. vol: Hardie Grant. (Vogue on Designers). 2017. 160p. illus. bibliog. index. $19.99. DEC ARTS The small-format books in the “Vogue on Designers” series offer excellent overviews of major fashion creators, providing a comprehensive look into each designer’s career and including beautiful color photographs from the pages of Vogue magazine. While there are stronger books on ­Chanel, Gaultier and Versace deliver striking photographs reflecting the eccentric and creative fashion of these visionaries. VERDICT For readers wanting a complete introduction to each fashion designer’s work at a reasonable price.—SR

Sandra Rothenberg has been reviewing art and fashion titles for LJ since 1999. She is currently Coordinator of Library Instruction at Whittemore Library, Framingham State University, MA. Liz French is Senior Editor, LJ Reviews