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Ice Cream

A Global History
Ice Cream: A Global History. Reaktion, dist. by Univ. of Chicago. (Edible). Apr. 2011. c.176p. illus. bibliog. index. ISBN 9781861897923. $15.95. COOKING
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In her first book, Weiss, who has contributed to such publications as The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, focuses predominantly on Asia, Europe, and America to trace the history of ice cream from its earliest incarnation as a frozen milk-like dessert during the Tang Dynasty (618–907 C.E.) to the myriad treats enjoyed today. Readers learn that along with advances in refrigeration technology, Prohibition also boosted the popularity of ice cream—when people could no longer socialize at bars many went to soda fountains. A chapter surveying ice cream eating habits in various countries reveals some unusual products, such as thick, chewy Turkish dondurma, made using flour milled from wild orchids. Each book in the series, which introduced seven new titles in 2010, features recipes (almost 30 in Weiss's contribution) reprinted from historical and modern sources as well as references, a bibliography, and illustrations (60 here, with 40 in color).
VERDICT This academic treatment lacks elegance, but the subject is captivating enough to keep the interest of students of cultural history as well as ice cream fanatics or foodie historians.
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