Most people would be daunted by the prospect of taking a job as a men’s fashion editor at the Paris office of
Women’s Wear Daily, while knowing only a smattering of French and even less about fashion. Not Lobrano, who made it work and eventually pivoted to his area of interest: fine dining. This memoir covers his 35 years in France; after
WWD, he became a freelance writer, then a restaurant critic, food writer, and editor at numerous publications (including the French edition of
Gourmet magazine in its final decade of publication). Between highlights from Lobrano’s career (an interview with Giorgio Armani; dinner with Julia Child), his memoir recounts growing up in Connecticut as a solitary, white, gay child who was fascinated with food. The memoir’s highlights are Lobrano’s graceful writing, deliciously detailed memories of meals and restaurants, and recollections about friends, colleagues, and chefs.
VERDICT If the main thing you remember about a trip is what you ate, this is the book for you. This combination of food writing and armchair travel will spark interest from start to finish.
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