COOKING & FOOD

The Core of an Onion: Peeling the Rarest Common Food—Featuring More Than 100 Historical Recipes

Bloomsbury. Nov. 2023. 240p. ISBN 9781635575934. $28. COOKING
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Known for his culinary deep dives in Cod and Salt, Kurlansky, in this book, traces the extensive history of onions from cuneiform tablets to the modern table, exploring various onion varieties and growing locations across the globe. At first glance, readers might assume this work will be esoteric or dry. On the contrary, it is a fascinating and educational read, full of interesting facts, such as that Meriwether Lewis preferred lily and hyacinth bulbs to onions, and that onion prices are believed to have brought down the national government in India in 1980. Kurlansky’s book also has recipes interspersed throughout the info. Some are expected (onion soup, onion pickles, onion bread), while other recipes may catch one off guard, such as the onion-lemon pie (there’s also an onion-coconut variation). Recipes are measured in weights but include conversions to cup measurements. Readers are sure to emerge amazed by this narrative of the humble onion, and Kurlansky’s tongue-in-cheek humor is a delight.
VERDICT A must purchase for both foodie patrons and fans of in-depth and compelling history.
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