At one time among the premier wine-producing regions of the country, the Finger Lakes area of upper New York State is regaining prominence on the national stage. Local writer and publisher Burford shines attention on the neighboring wineries. Focusing on the ones around three of the major lakes in the chain, he generously offers potential visitors history, anecdotes, and indication of the output at each. Readers will appreciate the care he takes in tracing the evolution and geography of regional winemaking. The author, as he admits, is not a wine judge, and his approach is deferential to taste being an individual matter. That sometimes means he is less objective about or critical of his subject than he could be. Burford is an avid cheerleader for the wine industry surrounding him, and his enthusiasm is sure to persuade some readers to seek out the wines and wineries.
VERDICT A welcome resource on an overlooked wine region, though a more balanced approach would have been preferred.
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